Ok, this article in the NJ Herald News is really about Bobolink Dairy, but Kari and I were there the day the reporter came and we warranted a mention. The lede makes Jonathan out to be a bit of a misanthrope, but I think that’s more than a little off-base. Anyone who’s met him would have to agree that he’s really quite personable. Other than that, this is quite a nice piece.

One of the many things that makes Bobolink different from other dairy farms — not to mention other cheesemakers — is that the cows here only eat grass. In a typical dairy operation, the cows will eat mostly grain or silage, often confined to a feedlot when they’re not in the milking barn. On some farms, cows are out on pasture eating grass sometimes supplemented with grain the rest of the time. The cows here, though, are different. From spring through fall they eat nothing but grass — outside. In the winter, they eat hay — outside. And that’s it.

There are a few reasons for this approach to dairying. The most basic is that grazing is part of the natural cycle of the cow’s life. Cows evolved to eat grass. Grain feeding is a relatively recent phenomenon — and one that can actually be harmful to the cows. According to EatWild, a website devoted to pasture-based farming:

Ruminants are designed to eat fibrous grasses, plants, and shrubs - not starchy, low-fiber grain. When cattle are switched from pasture to grain, for example, they can become afflicted with a number of disorders, including a common but painful condition called “subacute acidosis.” Cattle with subacute acidosis kick at their bellies, go off their feed, and eat dirt. To prevent more serious and sometimes fatal reactions, these animals are given chemical additives along with a constant, low-level dose of antibiotics.

Another good reason for pasture-raising animals — though not quite as high-minded — is cost. Once you have the land, grass is practically free. As long as it’s raining regularly and the sun is shining, the grass keeps growing back. Move the cows from pasture to pasture as they eat the grass down, and by the time you’re ready to move the cows back to the first pasture, the grass is back. Feed grain, on the other hand, and you’re looking at a costly feed bill.

Given the health and financial reasons, then, why would anyone bother with grain? As usual, the answer comes down to money. While it may be cheaper to feed grass than grain, grain-fed cows produce quite a lot more milk — something in the order of three times as much. Add in a confinement lot — something most large dairies use — and your labor costs can go down as well. The current system of large-scale corporate agriculture demands a large number of cows producing a huge volume of milk to make even a modest profit.

Small-scale operations, such as Bobolink, have an alternative in pasture-based farming that allows them to be profitable at a comfortable size. It also allows the operation to be seasonal (as in, the cows don’t milk in the winter — another rarity) and keeps the cows healthier. The average dairy cow milks for three seasons before it dies. We are currently milking cows that are 14 years old. This is almost as unheard of as the fact that we are able to get away with milking only once a day. We may be getting a third of the volume, but we’re more than making up for it in cheese.

(Now would be a good time to admit that my stats and figures here are a bit shaky. I’m relying on hearsay quite a bit. I trust this hearsay, but I know I need to do some more research on all of this. To that end, if anyone sees anything good — or knows of any good resources — please send them my way.)

A few pasturing resources:

Grassfarmer.com

EatWild - The Clearinghouse for information about pasture-based farming

American Grassfed Association

Grass-Based Farming: A Demo Dairy Project

DAIRY FARMER GIVES COWS A WINTER BREAK
Great Lakes Radio Consortium

Fresh Ideas
Another NPR piece, this time on The Leonard Lopate Show. A walk through Manhattan’s Union Square farmer’s market with Ruth Riechl and chefs Bill Telepan and Tom Colicchio.

Don’t Get Fresh With Me
NY Times editorial by Julie Powell, the writer responsible for the fascinating and fun blog, The Julia/Julie Project. The editorial in question posits the argument that local and organic food is an elitist pursuit. I’ve often thought this myself, but ultimately I’ve decided that there are ways to incorporate well-raised and carefully farmed foods into one’s diet without breaking the bank something that benefits everyone. Unlike her excellent blog, this piece is overly simplistic and, ultimately, smacks of reverse snobbery.